Hats for Spring/Summer...

The classic straw hat screams Spring/Summer! They are worn and used at all spectrums, from the high end catwalks to the muddy festival fields. We used them in our photoshoot to add the spring summer look, but to also add to the formality of the costumes.

The hats we used took inspiration from the historical period we looked at - the 1920's Garconne, meaning little boy. The look was founded by Coco Chanel, and she too wore a hat...

Coco Chanel

Katherine Hepburn

Although the hats these women wore were not straw hats, the idea was that the hat masculinised their outfits and rebelled against societys stereotypical norms and values of how women should dress.

We used the hats in our shoot to masculinise further the costumes, and make it more difficult to indentify who is the female and male.

On the catwalk we would use straw hats, because it links so strongly to our concept, and it screams spring/summer!!!

Catwalk Music

We have previously looked at Le Tigre for inspiration for our concept within their lyrics and their identity.

LastFM describe the band as a feminist dance-punk trio, mixing politics and feminism in their music! Although some of their lyrics are an extreme form of "girl power", it is still very closely related to our our concept of the Alpha Female. For this reason I think their music would be great to use in our catwalk. Also, electro-pop is a very fashionable in the music world at the moment, combined with the consistent beat, and the edgy funky sound, I think this music would be great for models to pound down the run way.

Blurring Gender Roles

This picture is brilliant - it represents an element of our concept - the blurring of gender roles in society!

Catwalk Lighting

We want to reflect our concept in spring/summer collections. The use of bright white catwalks forces people to look at the collection, gaining attention upon the props and the concept we would try to portray. It would illuminate the clothing and models and give an impression of sunlight in spring and summer through fresh clean lighting.

Other Spring/Summer collections have done this too...

Lacoste

Sir Paul Smith Quote

"Androgyny doesn't have to mean a buttoned up shirt, a tie and blazer...You could wear a big masculine coat with a little vintage lacy shirt, or a little lace dress with a large sweater"

Sir Paul Smith advises the androgynous trend to not be taken too literally, but to incorporate elements within other fashions.

Our photoshoot had a heavy theme of androgny, due to the models, makeup and costume we used. Our photoshoot was to portray an exaggerated form of our concept, describing the Alpha Female who has become the successful breadwinner, and the blurring of gender identity.

To transform our concept into a fashion show, we would take a much lighter approach, yet still incorporate elements of our photoshoot and historical influence inorder for our theme to flow and be applied to a designer collections such as Jil Sander.

We are now researching into models, lighting, props, hair and makeup and music that could be used for a catwalk...

"Tres Bien" - Le Tigre

Because they will try to convince us that we have arrived,

That we are already there, that it has happened.

Because we need to live in the place where we are truly alive,

Present, safe, and accounted for.

Because we refuse to allow our writing, songs, art, activism

And political histories to be suppressed or stolen.

Because we refuse to be embarassed about the mistakes

And faults and choose to move forward

With a political agenda bent on freedom of all.

I get it I get it I get it...

Tres Bien...

blog inspiration

http://cyanatrendland.com/2009/06/19/gotta-look-sharp-by-emin/

This 'Gotta Look Sharp' blog provided inspiration for our photoshoot & helped us realise the angle we were going for.

Our Photoshoot

Androgynous?

Jil Sander

Jil Sander's themes and values, is not too disimilar from what we seek to portray through our concept. Her first womens collection in 1973 featured tailored trousers suits, classic shirts and distincitve coats - similar to look we were going for in our shoot! Jil Snader wanted to provide a collection for the new generation of business women. Although this collection is 37 years old - the core theme behind it relates directly to our concept, of the breadwinnder female in our modern society!

Although Jil Sander is no longer a part of the company, the name and company lives on and the designers behind the scenes are continuing to create collections for the business woman

The popular colours used in the Spring Summer 2010 collection featured light monochrome...

More Live Window Displays

Louis Vuitton used live models to draw attention to his window and collection







Northumbria University showcased a dance routine using one of the university's windows!

It seems live models are a great way to draw attention from the crowds and create a buzz and interest about the concept you are trying to portray.

We think using live models to display our concept would be great to create interest amongst the public about the designer and our styling - great marketing!

Live Window Display

We really like the way live models are used in the window display at John Lewis to reflect the olympic theme...something we are considering using in our exhibition shop window display.

The Historical Influence of Powerful Rebelling Women

An article available on About.com by Jennifer Rosenberg, describes the political and societal shift experienced by women that affected the fashions of the 1920's.

"A new women was born. She smoked, drank, danced and voted." Oppurtunities that men had only experienced, women were breaking free and rebelling against the old rules and values of society.

The younger generation of women became flappers, and had attitutde and courage changing womens clothing and hair. Girls dismissed their corsets to go dancing, and to make movemet easier during dancing, they shortened thier clothes. They wore suits, long hemlines and flat shoes, became sexually active and premiscous (something always frowned upon previously) and participated in sports.

During this time another trend began to appear, oringinally initiated by Coco Chanel called Garconne, meaning Little Boy. Women flattened their chests and dropped their wasteline. Chanel took inspiration from masculine clothing, such as sailor suits and mechanics dungarees (1920's Fashion and Music.com) and applied it to make comfortable fashion for women.

These elements are reflected within many womenswear designer collections today, as can be seen from previous posts below (Paul Smith, Marc Jacobs and Nicole Miller).

Metro Sexual Male

There has been an increase of the metrosexual man amongst the male population, who enjoys dressing fashionably and spending large amounts of time and money on grooming. Men have become more flexible, dramatic and experimental with their attitude and behaviour towards their appearence.

This growth in demand, combined with the rise of the ever more powerful and successful female, is shaking up the UK's culture, society and fashion. More designers are creating adrogynous collections, or are involving elements of gender reversal within their collections, as is the highstreet, with the likes of American Apparel producing basic unisex items.

American Apparel

American Apparel

The Female Breadwinner

One hundred years ago a woman's role was very different. Women were expected to look after the home and family, and were not allowed to par-take in most forms of education and employment.

Women had battled to have more power before the 1900's, however it was not until the turn of the century when women became heard. A great and influential political movement, founded originally by Millicent Fawcett, yet enforced by Emmeline Pankhurst and her daughters, was the Suffragettes; fighting for womens right to vote within parliament. After many years of hard work, in 1918, the Representation of the People Act was finalised within parliament, which enabled women to vote.

Since then, throughout time women have had power within society, with many becoming role models for the female population.

As society continuously experiences change, it has been reported that women have adopted the stereotypical role of the breadwinner, becoming ever more successful within the work place. The Daily Mail reports that 1 in 5 women now earn more than their partners, and it is now men who stay at home to look after the home.

This societal shift, has also been reflected within fashion, with womenswear and menswear collections becoming androgynous. There has been an emphasised cross over of more feminine menswear, with deep scooping necklines from Carola Euler and mens corsetry by Karl Lagerfeld and John Galliano. Womenswear has also become more influenced by masculinity, with more tailoring from Paul Smith and Nicole Miller, reflecting the shift of women's roles within the workplace.

Karl Lagerfeld

In this photoshoot by karl Lagerfeld for German Vogue, both the male and female model are dressed in corset and frilly shirts. You do not notice instantly that one of the models is a male. the female model is made to look more empowered in the photographs, she is taller and has a much strong stance making her far more dominant in the images.

Jil Sander Menswear Spring/Summer 2010

The latest collection from Jil Snader is minimal and understated. The slim silhouettes gives the collection a relaxed and natural feel. Although a menswear collection, you can imagine many of the items been worn by a woman. The fitted trousers and draping printed tops are similar to many of the womenswear collections we see. The models are also made to look quite feminine which helps give the impression of a womenswear collection.

(Lanvin)

(Paul Smith)

(Marc Jacobs)

(Nicole Miller)

Tailored suits are now a popular feature in womenswear collections. All the suits shown above put a feminine twist on a masculine piece. The Nicole Miller suit has a loose draping shirt under a fitted jacket with shiny straight cut trousers. All these show how the agrogynous style can still be made to look feminine and sexy.

Katherine Hepburn was famous for her androgynous style, wearing wide trousers, waistcoats and shirts. Her make up was natural and her hair slicked away from her face giving her a radical masculine style.

Masculine Poses

http://www.daz3d.com/i/3d-models/-/everyday-poses-for?item=8059&_m=d

Hugo Boss Fall Winter 2009/2010

http://www.trendhunter.com/trends/hugo-by-hugo-boss-fall-winter

Werner Schreyer and Anouck Lepere are the new stars of the Hugo by Hugo Boss Fall-Winter 2009/10 ad campaign. The photoshoot comes to us in cold, black and white tones, with a clever use of lights and shadows.
Photographed by Jean-Francois Carly, the ads feature two almost androgen models with the same hair styles and postures. Although we are used to dominant figures of female models in the fashion world, this ad campaign seems to be giving the male gender the position of power.

Trend Union Winter 2010/2011

Yves Saint Laurent Androgynous Le Smoking Suit

Androgynous fashion, past and present, has been portrayed through uncomplicated, groomed tailoring.

Trend Union Winter 2010/2011 describes these "no-nonsense luxury pieces" as forceful fashion, that endeavours to satisfy the need of discretion within this modern society, with the use of monotone palettes. Avoiding black and white to create charming yet delicate basics.

The structure provided by the tailoring offers a "point of reference in an otherwise blurred impression of time." (Trend Union Winter 2010/2011).

Carolyn Massey AW09

Carolyn Massey - Menswear Designer.

Carolyn's Autumn/Winter 2009 Collection took inspiration from the National Army Musuem in Sandhurst, and reflects the militant gentlemen (Carolyn Massey Online 2010). A Military Gentlemen would be considered as a strong, masculine, bold and corageous man. The collection reflects the strong and bold characteristics of a militant gentleman, however Carolyn contraversially uses male models with a feminine appearence, creating a concept of adrogyny.

John Galliano Milan Fashion Week Fall 2010

John Galliano Milan Fashion Week Spring 2009

In todays Fashion we are seeing many designers creating collections that could be seen as both menswear and womenswear. ElDelgados recent collection shown at Cibele Fashion Week included trousers with layered frills in black and pale blue and loose fitting tops in sheer transparent fabric. YSL have created masculine suits for women, which have been made feminine with a waist belt to create a more fitted shape. Karl Lagerfeld has created a casual laid back style with an oversized white shirt and black jacket worn by a boyish female model. Carola Euler uses low draping delicate necklines and sequines to emphasise a feminine silhouette and style. Unisex clothing ranges are also been sold in high street strores such as American Apparel, where you can buy t-shirts, cardigans, trousers, jumper and hoodies that have been made specifically for both men and women.

During the 1970s the hippie trend was popular for both men and women. Flares, high waisted trousers, headbands, tie dye and platform soles were worn by both the sexes. The seventies saw a huge turnaround in mens fashion as it adapted a more casual unisex style. The crossover between men and womens fashion has continued through the decades with utility and workwear and new designers experimenting with androgyny.

Hippie Era 1969

Originally a youth movement within the United States of America, the Hippie Culture quickly spread across the world and became the generation of pyschedelic rock, sexual revolution, drugs and spirituality .

The fashion disobeyed traditional gender dress, and introduced the concept of adrogynous fashion. Men and women dressed the same, in frayed bell bottom jeans, tye dye fabrics, pyschedelic prints, indian prints and sandals.